冒险护照：田部井淳子
Passport to Adventure: Junko Tabei
2022年9月21日
09.21.2022
《冒险护照》——本系列聚焦历史上突破世俗偏见、勇敢无畏的女性——再度回归！本月主角是日本传奇登山家田部井淳子。
Passport to Adventure – our series highlighting bold women who defied expectations throughout history – is back! This month we’re highlighting Junko Tabei, a legendary mountaineer from Japan.
田部井淳子（生于1939年）是日本著名登山家，因成为首位登顶珠穆朗玛峰的女性而享誉全球。尽管面临社会与性别偏见，她始终未放弃自幼萌发的登山热情。
Junko Tabei (born 1939) was a Japanese mountaineer, renown worldwide for being the first woman to climb Mt. Everest. Defying societal and gender expectations, Junko never deterred from her passion of climbing, which blossomed from a very young age.
得知20世纪70年代日本登山团体禁止女性加入后，她创立了"女性主导探险"为宗旨的登山俱乐部。其率领的"女子登山俱乐部"成功征服尼泊尔安纳普尔纳Ⅲ峰，并将目标锁定在需排队四年申请攀登许可的珠穆朗玛峰。
After learning that women were prohibited from joining mountaineering groups in 1970’s Japan, she founded a climbing club with the mantra that women could and should lead their own expeditions. Her club (Joshi-Tohan Club) conquered Nepal’s Annapurna III and set their sights on Mt. Everest, which had a 4-year waiting list for climbing permits at the time.
阿什利·海绘制的田部井淳子插画
An illustration of Junko Tabei by Ashley Hay
1975年，田部井淳子带领该俱乐部15名女性组成"日本女性珠峰探险队"向顶峰进发。行前她们为筹措经费四处争取赞助，却因性别歧视屡屡碰壁，不得不自制睡袋等装备，并循环利用回收材料。
Junko led 15 women from her new mountaineering group on the Japanese Women’s Everest Expedition in 1975 to Everest’s summit. Before setting off, they lobbied for sponsorships to fund their expedition. Due to the aforementioned sexism, they struggled to raise adequate funding and had to create makeshift gear like sleeping bags themselves, and relied on recycled material.
攀登途中，田部井与四位队员遭遇特大雪崩被埋，失去意识。幸得可靠的随行夏尔巴向导相救。虽负伤休养数日，她仍率队向目标挺进。历经艰难攀登后，仅剩一瓶氧气可供一人继续使用，田部井被推选完成最终冲顶，由此蜚声国际。
While on their ascent, Junko and her climbing group encountered a massive avalanche, which buried Junko and knocked her unconscious, along with four other club climbers. Luckily, the trusty sherpa they brought along saved them. Junko was injured from the encounter, but after a couple of days of rest she and her team blazed ahead to their goal. After a tumultuous climb, there was only enough oxegyn bottles for one woman to continue, and Tabei was nominated to finish the climb, catapulting her to international fame.
田部井的登山生涯从未停歇。1992年，她成为首位完成"七大洲最高峰登顶"的女性——足迹遍及乞力马扎罗山、阿空加瓜山、厄尔布鲁士山、德纳里山、文森峰及卡斯滕斯金字塔。
Junko never stopped climbing. In 1992, she became the first woman to mount the Seven Summits in the world – the highest mountain on each continent. From Nepal to Indonesia, she conquered Everest, Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua, Elbrus, Denali, Vinson Massif, and Carstensz Pyramid.
她对登山的热爱延伸至生态保护领域。2002年，田部井重返校园专攻生态学，研究环境退化问题，后担任日本喜马拉雅探险信托基金理事，并著有相关主题著作。该机构致力于保护高海拔山地环境的脆弱生态。
Her love for climbing didn’t end with the physical sport. In 2002, Junko returned to studies and focused on Ecology. She researched environmental degradation and later joined the Himalayan Adventure Trust of Japan as their director, and even authored books on the topic. They were focused on protecting the fragility of high-alpine environments in order to preserve them.
2012年，田部井确诊癌症。在身体条件允许下，她坚持攀登直至生命最后一刻，于2016年逝世。
Sadly, Junko was diagnosed with cancer In 2012. She kept climbing as long as her body allowed her, and passed away in 2016.
在《女英雄合集》与《探险杂志》中进一步了解田部井淳子事迹。
You can read more about Junko at The Heroine Collective and adventure journal.
亦可观看PBS儿童频道制作的可爱动画短片：
Check out this adorable video from PBS Kids about Junko as well;
（视频暂无法下载，有条件的可以访问原视频网址观看：https://youtu.be/9RBJ6xXUCsQ ）
——原文网址：https://tombraiderblog.square-enix-games.com/en-us/motp/blog/pta-junko-tabei/
